South Africa Blog Entry 4: Wild Coast and Transkei, Port Elizabeth to Durban

Leaving Port Elizabeth i realized again how much the nature and landscape in South Africa changes in short distances. After maybe 200 km of Garden Route with its Forests and mountains suddenly the terrain got more flat and open, different vegetation and a coastline that is dominated by the huge dunefield along the coast. So from Port Elizabeth it was only industrial area because of its big harbour for maybe 15 km which then turned to a more savannah and bushland landscape.

Leaving PE on wide but empty streets for the trucks of mining and oil companies but not too much to see I had a nice race with a race cyclist (not too much of a chance for me) and finally went on N2 for 15 km until colchester. After going back and forth in the town from campsite to Hotels where i asked for possibilities to visit Addo Elephant Park, i finally ended up in Rossi's B&B where I could stay for two nights. Nice Braai (Barbecue) in the evening and my own bed. As good as it gets.

The next day my original plan was to see the dunes of the huge dune field of this area just to discover i can't make it there with the bike and i would have to pass the campsite that, obviously wants money for entering. Beeing a bit disappointed i went back to Rossi's place to pack when he offered me if I could just wait till 4 he's gonna take me there on his Jetski, i should just stay one more night. Oh Yeah I'm going to do that. So after he used another hour of his time to help me repair one of the bike bags by taking me to the workshop of one of his friends, we took his race-jetski and speeded towards the shore, sometimes just meters from the coastline. He dropped me next to the dunes and i went for a walk in this surreal landscape. I couldn't believe what's happening to me. Receiving all this hospitality and help and then such a nice shorttrip it felt like being at home or with really good friends. Being treated so nicely by people that you barely know, it's hard to believe.

I got into contact with a couple of guys also staying at rossi's that are working in street construction so we had some good conversations about their living and working conditions and it was really funny to pass by their workplace later on. Sadly (or well, better than nothing probably) a lot of people here have jobs where they are not really doing anything. No variety in activities and no qualifications needed. Like standing next to a speedbump waving a flag for 12 hours a day. Horribly boring. A lot of women are doing this quite useless job and some of them that i talked with, man were they happy to have someone to chat to for a couple of minutes that's what i can tell you.

Leaving Colchester resulted in another change in landscape: one fairly long uphill and suddenly it is all farmland again. Wide and open area, green and lots of cattle. I had a horrible day with the conditions, lots of hills to climb and strong winds from the front. But i was in no rush and picked the speed at which it felt ok going with and did 55 km that day (8 hours cycling). I spent the night at a farm with all kinds of animals which were proudly presented to me by the son of the family.

Next days i was invited to a nice braai by a family spending their holidays at a campsite and stayed at a nice backpackers in Port Alfred. Strangely there's only been black people staying there which was a nice change I thought. After that it was more or less unspectacular. Along the coast but nothing to see because of the dunes along the coast.

This changed when R72 turned away from the coast and i got a nice first impression how Transkei looks like. Much more like Uganda and Ghana, the countries in Africa that i already knew. More rural, villages that spread far across the countryside, which in this area barely has any vegetation except grass. So you get the most breathtaking views in this mountaineous area. Transkei is one of the so called homelands where a lot of black and coloured people where forced to move to during the Apartheid era. I tried to move there freely but was constantly told how dangerous it is and that i basically shouldn't leave the road. So, looking for some food i ended up in a village at a shop where two policemen where hanging around. It was like one scene described in Ryszard Kapuscinski's African Fever: Policemen pointing out that everyone but him is a thief. Tsotsi. And this one, sir, (Pointing with fearful shaking hand) very big tsotsi. I couldn't stop them from "helping me out" with a police escort. But you wouldn't believe how slow i can drive this bike. I told them I'm going to be slow, still they wanted to get me safe to the next restaurant. Which then didn't exist, leaving me hungry in the middle of nowhere. Yeah, thanks for saving me from all those Tsotsis. They would have probably told me i was lucky not being robbed when i went to get my water from a primary school a couple of kilometres before. Even black policemen have predjudice of other black and coloured people in certain areas. But then they go and hang out at a restaurant together, it is confusing.

The more things like these happen, the more I struggle to put it into words. And certainly some things leave me confused and upset. Struggling to deal with it or write it down then makes me question the purpose of the trip sometimes. Am I doing this for me, or is there a deeper purpose behind it. If i can't find people to join me how can it be about connecting or let's say making deeper connections to people. If I need time for myself and enjoy travelling alone that much, how can it be about intercultural exchange? If i struggle to write, how does this all make any difference from a holiday trip? Is it about fun or having a hard time on the road? Beautiful ecolodges in the middle of nowhere or staying with families in clayhuts? Talking to those thousands of people that i have contact to every day or about reflecting on my own? On some days i have a lot of these things on my mind. What am i doing here after all? Trying to have a good time and travel, avoiding trouble or unpleasant situations or will I also put myself willingly into unpleasant, scaring and shocking situations that shove it in my face how things really are, far away from the standard tourism? But can i also deal with being confronted with all this injustice, poverty and crime all the time? Swaziland will tell.

And the further I move northeast the stronger the situations get. East London finally was the first city to me that i would consider being an african city, not halfway into being a copy of standard european cities.
At least central East London was. But before i got there I cycled next to a black marathon runner for some 10 km and ended up on a road next to the coast where multiple people basically told me it is a killing field. One car stopped me there, a white farmer with her two daughters. No other cars on the street and the car obviosly stopping because of me. I can't say it didn't scare me a bit. But oh they just stopped me to tell me this road is shit dangerous and that i shouldn't stop. Basically scaring the shit out of me just to tell me to be scared. Eish.

Arriving in East London i went straight to one of the takeaways to get some chips, which here are soft and oily almost raw potato stripes. You constantly have to force cooks to just leave it in longer. Didn't work this time. I sit in the restaurant forcing down the food while the owner is standing at the booth and one of his workers (probably also his exgirlfriend or something similar) is trying to get what seems like her last salary. He refuses to give her the money and goes "we can talk and i give you the money, maybe tomorrow" while she just keeps repeating "i don't want to talk. Give me the money, i want to leave". They do this for 10 minutes straight, no other words were used. I didn't know if i should throw up because of the rainwormlike chips or burst out laughing because of their conversation. Surely i was happy not to have to come back. Ever, i hope.

In East London i get taken in by an awesome couple of couchsurfers in a beautiful home close to East London's main and supposedly only attraction: Nahoon Beach.

But having booked a seat under special conditions on the BazBus due to time runnging out on my South African Visa (Mainly because of my rock climbing addiction) i had to leave already the next day. Skipping Transkei on a bus. 10 times cycling speed. Shame Shame Shame.

Being in the bus, knowing i didn't have much of a choice than to skip there, not riding these 300 horribly mountaineous kilometres on the motorway, i still suffered a lot. The landscape and nature was breathtaking: grasland as far as you can see, hills and gorges and the Fortress of the Lesotho mountains in the north. Combined with a sunset that leaves you speechless. And I'm on a smelly, loud and shaking bus rushing past all of this beauty. Made me realize again why I'm on this bike torturing myself on the uphills.



It's declared that this reduces motion transference and hence decreases <br><br>
partner disturbance. But if you are familiar with the merchandise <br><br>
and saw comparable or exact same items elsewhere, then go all out.<br><br>
My weblog :: <a href="">www.luxurauk.c...

Hi, i feel that i noticed you visited my weblog thus i came to return the favor?.I am attempting to find issues to improve my website!I <br><br>
suppose its good enough to make use of some of your <br><br>
my page; essay writing contest -

Hello! I could have sworn I've been to this blog <br><br>
before but after checking through some of the post I realized <br><br>
it's new to me. Nonetheless, I'm definitely delighted I found <br><br>
it and I'll be book-marking and checking back frequently!<br><br>
Feel free to visit my weblog :: liberty reserve hack -

I got this site from my buddy who informed me on the topic of <br><br>
this web site and now this time I am visiting this web site and reading very informative content at this time.<br><br>
Also visit my site: <a href="">writing essays</a>

Hi! I just wanted to ask if you ever have any issues <br><br>
with hackers? My last blog (wordpress) was hacked and <br><br>
I ended up losing several weeks of hard work due to no backup.<br><br>
Do you have any methods to protect against hackers?<br><br>
Here is my homepage real land based -

Howdy! I know this is kinda off topic but I'd figured I'd ask.<br><br>
Would you be interested in exchanging links or maybe guest writing a blog article or vice-versa?<br><br>
My site goes over a lot of the same subjects as yours and I <br><br>
feel we could greatly benefit from each other.<br><br>
If you happen to be interested feel free to shoot me an email.<br><br>
I look forward to hearing from you! Excellent blog by the way!<br><br>
Also visit my homepage <a href="">free download zapya for pc</a>

Howdy! I could have sworn I've been to this website before but after browsing through some of the post I realized it's new to me.<br><br>
Anyways, I'm definitely happy I found it and I'll be book-marking and checking <br><br>
back frequently!<br><br>
Feel free to surf to my web site; zapya for pc free download <br><br>

What's up, yup this piece of writing is truly nice and I have learned <br>

lot of things from it on the topic of blogging.<br>



My homepage ... <a href="">pan card status track</a>

fantastic issues altogether, you just gained a <br><br>
new reader. What might you suggest about your post that you just made a few days ago?<br><br>
Any certain?<br><br>
my website ... sequela icd 10 ( Fran - )

Excellent weblog here! Also your website so much up very fast!<br><br>
What web host are you using? Can I am getting your associate link in your host?<br><br>
I wish my web site loaded up as fast as yours lol<br><br>
Feel free to visit my website :: zapya free download -

I used to be able to find good information from your blog articles.<br><br>
Look at my blog post :: zapya for pc free download - <a href=""></a> -

Thanks for sharing your thoughts about audition lyrics la la land.<br><br>
Also visit my page :: zapya download for pc ( - )

bookmarked!!, I like your website!<br>


Here is my site :: wells fargo online login -

That is a really good tip especially to those new to the <br><br>
blogosphere. Short but very precise information… Thanks for sharing this one.<br><br>
A must read article!<br><br>
Also visit my blog: <a href="">favorite college essay</a>

Pretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your blog and <br><br>
wanted to say that I've truly enjoyed browsing your <br><br>
blog posts. In any case I'll be subscribing to your rss feed and I am hoping you write again soon!<br><br>
Feel free to visit my blog post :: zapya for pc -

Hi there, I desire to subscribe for this web site to obtain latest updates, therefore where <br><br>
can i do it please help out.<br><br>
Feel free to surf to my webpage oneplus 5 amazon -

Thankfulness to my father who stated to me regarding this website,<br><br>
this webpage is really remarkable.<br><br>
My web blog ... zapya for window 7 (<a href=""></a>)

My relatives every time say that I am killing my time here at net, but I know I am getting experience every day by <br><br>
reading such pleasant articles.<br><br>
Visit my web blog - <a href="">zapya for pc</a>

That is very attention-grabbing, You're an excessively <br>

skilled blogger. I've joined your rss feed and look ahead to searching for extra of your great post.<br>

Additionally, I have shared your site in my social networks<br>


My web site; mini militia god mod apk -

Hi there, I enjoy reading all of your article post.<br><br>
I like to write a little comment to support you.<br><br>
Here is my web blog :: drive google (<a href="">www....)

I pay a visit daily some sites and websites to read articles, however <br><br>
this weblog gives feature based articles.<br><br>
my web site ... <a href="">zapya download</a>

Hello there! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with Search Engine Optimization? I'm trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted <br><br>
keywords but I'm not seeing very good results.<br><br>
If you know of any please share. Thanks!<br><br>
Feel free to surf to my page: Darby Hlavaty -

It is not my first time to visit this web site, i am visiting this web site dailly <br><br>
and get pleasant data from here all the time.<br><br>
my blog - <a href="

Przenosimy się do Atlanty. Dochodzi do porozumienia między członkami mafii a policjantami. Kolejnym planem gangsterów jest duży napad, jednak aby zrealizować swój cel muszą odwrócić uwagę innych. Planują zabić jednego z policjantów. Mnóstwo scen, gdzie można zobaczyć z bliska jak wygląda przestępczy świat, bary pełne od wytatuowanych, brutalnych latynoamerykańskich bandziorów, skorumpowana policja. Film nie oszczędza nam krwawych scen, gdzie są odcięte ludzkie kończyny, głowy. Wszystko dzieje się z polecenia rosyjsko-żydowskiej mafii. Film dla widzów o mocnych nerwach.

Bollywood Models Escorts Service In India | Bollywood Escorts in India | Female Escorts Service India | Model Escorts Service India | High Profile Celebrities-
Bollywood Models Escorts Service In India | Bollywood Escorts in India | Female Escorts Service India | Model Escorts Service India | High Profile Celebrities-
Bollywood Models Escorts Service In India | Bollywood Escorts in India | Female Escorts Service India | Model Escorts Service India | High Profile Celebrities-
Bollywood Models Escorts Service In India | Bollywood Escorts in India | Female Escorts Service India | Model Escorts Service India | High Profile Celebrities-

Add new comment

Plain text

  • No HTML tags allowed.
  • Web page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically.
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.